Autumn 08
WONDERFUL PINOT NOIR FROM THE WEST? YOU WOULDN’T READ ABOUT IT!
Words Peter Hathaway
Pemberton Pinot
I love wine. Over the years, I’ve spent too many hours and overblown conversations honing an appreciation for it. From my University daze majoring in rough reds and pizza, I matured and developed into a S.N.A.Q. – a Sensitve New Age Quaffer, equally adept at quaffing burly reds and delicate whites.
But lately I have been having doubts. I find myself questioning my once catholic tastes. Feeling lost in that broad church, I sense I’m withdrawing into a narrow, puritanical devotion – a follower of one grape. The grape of grapes. The one true grape – Pinot Noir.
It would seem I’m not alone.
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People who know me know that I am a little less excited about Australian wine than others seem to be (he says showing a complete mastery of understatement). While this may surprise some people, it is not that unusual for a person with my experience in this business. In fact, it is the very characteristics of most Australian wine that appeals to John Q. Public that turns me and other grizzled veterans off; especially when we talk about Shiraz. Most of these wines are just too sweet and terminally lack structure. “Loads of jammy fruit” is the code phrase for me to hightail it in the opposite direction. So imagine my surprise when I tasted not one but two remarkable wines from down under in a recent tasting. Honestly, if there were more beautifully structured wines like this from Australia I would be a big fan. I doubt that will happen, but in the mean time these two are well worth mentioning:
Picardy Pinot Noir, Western Australia- Never, ever did I expect to taste Pinot from Australia this focused and balanced. Undeniably in the Burgundy style, this beautifully made wine features earthy terroir in the nose and elegant balance on the palate. This is one of the few wines made outside of Burgundy that captures the true essence of Pinot Noir – a great value. |
UNCORKED
WINE OF THE WEEK
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Ralph Kyte-Powell
Picardy Shiraz 2005
The Pannells of Picardy winery, near Pemberton in WA, make unashamedly Francophile-style wines. Subtlety,
Complexity and savoury charm take precedence over big, ripe, traditional Aussie traits in their wines. This shiraz illustrates the style will; a complex nose of spice, plum, earth and smoky, vaguely feral aromas. In the mouth it’s medium in body with lovely texture and length of flavour, and ripe tannins underneath. Not in the squeaky clean, sweet-fruited Oz mould, this is full of interest and gets better with each sip. ***** $$
Ageing? Drink over five years
Food ideas: Venison and other game: sautéed kidneys |
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Western Australia
Ray Jordan’s Guide to Wine 2008
Picardy
Bill Pannell’s decision to establish Picardy at Pemberton was based on the gravellysoils and cool climate that he believed would ideally suit pinot noir, shiraz and chardonnay. Indications are that, as always, he was right. The wines are made to reflect traditional French regional styles.
There are few people more committed to excellence in the Australian wine industry than Bill Pannell. His passion and single-minded focus first took him to Margaret River in the late 1960s when he estavlished Moss Wood, the pre-eminent small vineyard in Australia.
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Golfing Pro
Written by Grant Dodd
Pinot Noir 2008
Pinot afficionado's have tried to keep this wine quiet over the last few years, not wanting the word to get out about the quality and value for money inherent to this Pemberton (W.A.) region wine. It might be a bit late now though, as the last few vintages have been terrific and it won't take long for the word to get out about this one either.It's quite delicious, with sour cherry like flavours backed up by mineral and spice elements that add length and interest to the wine. The Picardy style has become progressively more savoury with each passing year, and whilst the riper, richer New World flavour profile is in evidence the wine exhibits lovely balance and food friendliness. An excellent Australian Pinot Noir, priced nicely.
Points 94
Drink When 2008-2013 |
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